Ways to sell your collectibles

sellonline

Cell phone technology is making it easier to take your collectibles, in some case, right out of your garage and sell them online. Believe it or not I’m talking about a much broader audience than just E-Bay. I’m talking about introducing what you have to sell to an audience of possible buyers that is several platforms wide, making it possible for you to reach treasure hunters in a wide variety of places and all you need is an Android, or I-Phone. In case you haven’t heard about the free apps I’m about to mention you will soon see how valuable these four apps are, especially if you want to sell online, even without owning a website.

Poshmark
Poshmark

For the Apple-I-phone download the free app “Sell Simple” and you’ll see what I mean. The Sell Simple app allows you to take a few snap shots of the things you want to sell, the app lets you enter a short description, and set a price; after that click on the Sell-Simple-Listing and your item-post is sent out. In a flash your item appears on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter as well as Amazon and E-Bay, it’s just that simple. The app also closely monitors the items you put up for sale and guards against the accidental double sale of the same item on all of the above mentioned platforms.
The app “POSHMARK” works on both the I-Phone and Android cell phones, the listing of your item on POSHMARK is free but they do charge a small commission fee on your sale after you and the buyer have negotiated a selling price. The free app POSHMARK is great for selling designer clothes and other fashion items.

Yardsale
Yardsale
Shpock
Shpock

Free apps “SHPOCK” and “YARDSALE” are also available for local sales that might include large furniture and other precious bobbles-bangles-and beads. YARDSALE will post instantly on Facebook and Twitter and even offers options to set up alerts for new items. Shpock let’s prospective buyers browse by category to narrow their search and relies more on photographs so take the best picture(s) you can with your camera and be sure to highlight/show any imperfections, nicks, or scrapes, the item you’re selling might have.
Caution: as with all new technologies don’t put all of your items for sale in the one basket, so-to-speak. What I mean is, try testing either or all, of these sales sources and make sure they operate the way you want them too. They all sound like great ways to market and sell item you might have but I have not used either of these platforms so make sure you test before you commit totally to one or the other.

Online Thrift Store Shopping

I spent some time shopping thrift stores in my area and made a few collectible finds, some O-Gage Model Railroad track and cars along with some glass, and some collectible mugs but while in my local Goodwill store browsing to see what I might find I got into a conversation with one of the people who worked there and he told me about shopping online at Goodwill. In spite of the fact that I had been hearing about just about everything moving to an online presents:the postal service, banks and credit unions I honestly had never consider Goodwill online shopping. Tiki1

Tiki2

Tiki3
When I found out about the online auction I thought, even better! In fact I have to admit the Auction part was what really caught my attention. I imagined not having to drive my gas guzzling truck around in search of goodies fit for resale. I know nothing beats being able to put your hand on something and appraise it with your own senses.
Once I found an item that seemed in demand and a potentially sale I usually ended up at my computer scoping out what similar items were selling for on the E-Bay site, and trying to add up that item’s shipping cost. I was surprise at how easy it was to log onto the Goodwill auction site, search through the hundreds and in some cases thousands of thrift store items, make my selection and hope for the best. I was starting to get pretty excited about shopping thrift stores online when some realities started to set in.
For one thing was that after all an auction and while I had bid on a few items I still needed to wait until the bidding time expired to find out if my bid had been selected. In two of the cases I did have the winning bid and ended up being able to turn a profit on the items I had chosen so I thought I share with the readers of this blog. You will need to sign up to be able to shop at Goodwill online, sign up is free. Stay tuned I’ll share more about my online thrift store shopping experience.

How to determine the value of your collectibles

38368Taking care of the things we collect is important and can have a major effect on the value of an item whether you’re the buyer, or sell-ee (seller). Taking good care of a collection, be-it coins, or comic books requires some means of preserving your collectible’s newness, or at least its current state and preventing any further deterioration. That can mean anything from gloves to prevent oil from fingers contributing to the tarnishing of coins, to insurance for your most valuable pieces.

Just how much protection and preparation is needed to protect your collection usually depends on how valuable a collectible is; this article is meant to help you set a value for your collectibles and determine what they are worth. There once was a time when collectors depended on guidebooks and other reference materials to go about figuring out how much something should be bought or sold for. On a personal note, from watching the Antique’s Road Show, I’d say most of the pros have memorized those guidebooks.

In the collectible business that kind of knowledge is helpful to keep you from paying too much for a collectible piece and I suppose to also help the sell make sure she doesn’t take any losses on a sale. This does not apply to those with collectibles considered to be priceless and honestly feel that no amount of money in the world could make them part with a family heirloom or some other valuable piece that is in some way attached to them emotionally or spiritually.

So there are some collectibles and keepsakes that cannot be priced because of sentimental value. Luckily for the majority of collectors out there most of the items we come across are attainable at the right price. If you’re relatively new to the collectible pricing game here’s the best way I’ve found to keep up with the pros, and it’s all thanks to the fact that we live in the age of the Electronic Brain (the computer) where the word “scarcity” is being redefined by online auction dealers like E-Bay and people with computers like you.

Nothing can be more frustration than over paying for something you believed to be the last one, or one of a rare few, only to learn that there are several other “one-of-a-kind objects” just like you bought. How could the guidebooks and reference materials miss that? Chances of you being able to get a good financial return on an over-priced collectible are slim. So unless the item in question has some sentimental value to you, and would still make a good keepsake for you; you could be on the losing end of that sale if you over paid.

Because of E-Bay lots of different collectibles once thought to be extremely rare have been popping up in a lot of places thanks to the information super highway, better known these days as the internet; that’s the good news—the bad news is that in the collecting business when the supplies of something goes up, the price goes down. So, here’s how you can use the great and powerful E-Bay to help you fix your price and determine just how rare is rare when it comes to a collectible piece. There is a requirement; however, you will need a computer.
Log on to: E-Bay.com,
Click on: Advanced Search,
Then click on: “Completed Listings” Only.

If you’re someone just looking to find out what you are holding in your hand is worth, then you will have a starting price or bid. If you are an experienced collector sitting on top of many valuable collectibles you will at least know whether or not you need to raise, or lower, the insurance you carry on your treasure(s). All this and more—if you’re lucky enough to find the item you are looking for on E-Bay.

So whether you collect keepsakes for yourself; for investment purposes; or to re-sell them, knowing the value of your collectible is an important step to help determine the type of protection (case, protective bag, box, even gloves) necessary to keep your collectible safe and in the best condition until you decide to part with it; knowing your collection’s truest up-to-the-minute value is good for your resale, and a helpful indicator whether the insurance covering your collection needs adjustment.

A word of caution, while was studying these things I read that 50 to 90% of sports memorabilia is estimated to be counterfeit by most experts, so E-Bay may not be enough the help determine the worth of “sports” items. Here’s another website just in case (and perhaps another article for this blog one day) if you have baseball/sports memorabilia you might want to check out this site www.mlb.com when trying to appraise your sports collectibles. I did see some authenticity services when I was on the E-Bay site they might be useful if you collect, or have sports memorabilia.

Because of an online place like E-Bay you can see what something is selling for in real time, right now, today! And I hope feel a little more confident when it comes to putting a price on the items you want to sell. I mentioned the fact that you wouldn’t want to pay more for something than it is really worth but at the same time when acting as the seller, you want to get the best price (at least the market price) for what you do sell.

There will always be the collector’s guidebooks, at least I hope the guides don’t go the way of the telephone booth, or analog television and disappear altogether, even then the experienced collectors would still be out there to help answer your collectible questions. If you’re a collector, even a beginner, and take the time to learn how the E-bay auction pricing system works for the collectibles E-Bay auctions, I think you’ll do just fine when it comes to having the truest ball-park figure for the collectible(s) you have.

A special thanks to all of you who not only take the time to read this blog but who also take the time to leave a comment; I find your words very encouraging.
Hank Gray

Numismatism and Garage Sales End

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Okay I could not find the word numismatism but that’s what this blog post is about, the numismatist (coin collector) performing his/her numismatic duty (collecting coins) —but before I go there Tis-the Season (in my area anyway) when the garage sellers start packing in their garage sale items until next year, and the time when most of my antique fortune hunting turns inward (inside the thrift stores) exclusively.
The local thrift stores near me have gone into Halloween mode devoting whole sections of the store to Halloween costumes, makeup and other scary looking props. It’s funny how the little collector’s knowledge I have managed to acquire has changed the way I look at things when I’m on the hunt for antiques, or collectible items, nothing in costumes yet though.
I doubt if I’ll ever achieve the level of expertise of the refined collectors associated with the Antiques-Road-Show or perhaps even the local antiques shop owner but for me the fun is in the search, and right now that search is for model railroad memorabilia, but!
I did learn a few things about coin collecting since my last blog post and wanted to share.
My small coin collection (yes I have one of those too) shown in the picture here-above is more of the stumble across variety than the controlled confident numismatist approach to coin collecting. I say that because I learned that when you collect coins most of the true collectors tend to collect them in groups, you know like 1944 Dollar, Half-Dollar, Quarter, nickel, dime and penny all for that particular year in time.
I suppose you do it that way so as not to end up with the hodge-podge of coinage that I have, that by-the-way is truly a treasure chest to me because while it is filled with coins from many different countries so far I’m rich in money I can’t spend; kind of like having all kinds of money only no cash. Anyway my style of collecting is discouraged from what I understand even though, like me, many people with metal detectors and, in some cases, only a shovel excel in my style of collecting.
I learned that the few pieces of coin I did find in the ground years ago and proceeded to clean and shine them up for an offering would not have been accepted by a true numismatist—because it was cleaned. Seems the pros prefer very old coins, darkened by human finger oils, temperature, and time just the way they are. Now to be honest when I heard that I was left wondering why? Was it because they wanted to be the one who cleaned it themselves?
The condition of the coin is important to a collector just in case you have coins you are considering parting with, the condition of the coin is how collectible coins are graded, I didn’t get all the details but it amounted to three categories “very good” or almost perfect, with the date and other important identifying characteristics clearly visible on the metal of the coin. “Not so good” to poor was the next class down, where there might be a date and other identifiers that were obviously worn and perhaps hard to see.
The last category amounted to the junk coin class which by-the-way still had some value even if greatly diminished because of a coins condition. Some collectors collect only the best or top grading coins, others settle only on the middle market, keeping away from the higher grade and lower grade coins, and there are those who specialize only on what I call the junk coin grade. Then there are the guys like me, a collector with a collection born of opportunity, luck (being in the right place at the right time) a collection made up of no particular coin groupings.
The metal a particular coin is made from is important too; Gold & Silver still rule even though the price for gold and silver does tend to go up and down in value, which brings me to what I was going to say about cleaning your coins, and making them nice and shiny. The coins my metal detector guided me to once upon a time were copper, and silver, I didn’t use anything fancy to clean them meaning I didn’t use a chemical solvent or anything.
The concoction I used was made up of vinegar, and table salt, I mixed table salt with vinegar into a coffee cup dropped my two tarnished black coin into the cup and let them sit in the extra briny mix overnight. The next day I cleaned them with a little dishwashing soap and water. One of them (a 1909 wheat penny) showed a little shine. The other (a 1941 U.S. half-dollar) was only about halfway there. Another treatment of vinegar and salt, followed by a soap & water wash made the half dollar about as shiny as it was going to get. If I had known then, what I know now, I would have left them both the way I found them and not over cleaned ‘em.
If any of you are interested in coin collection, or have a small treasure chest full of coin the way I do and want some idea of what your coin, or collection is worth, do as I have done get yourself a nice sized Sherlock Holmes spyglass and pick up a copy of the publication: The official Red Book, A Guide Book of U.S. Coins, by R.S. Yeoman, Kenneth Bresset and others. The price I saw on E-Bay was in the 12 to 14 dollar range, the book comes in paperback or hardcover version. The Red book lists U.S. and some other coins along with their estimate value and tips about coin condition. Their coin rating system rates on the order of 1 to 70 with the upper end of the range being mint-condition, and 1 being at the opposite end of the scale somewhere under-low. That way if you decide to offer your collection for sale or show them amongst numismatists you’ll have a ball-park-figure idea of what your coin collection, single coin, or coin you plan to buy, is worth.

Glass Collectibles

Depression era glass—Glasscollectible

know how to spot some? True glass collector aficionado would of course know all the tricks, cues, and tell-tale marks to identify one kind of glass from the other, however, when I roam the garage and flea-market circuit I am usually looking for something that appeals to me in sight and price first, and to see if I have some need for a piece that catches my eye. Then usually afterwards I try to determine if there is any value other than the reflex value I placed on that item. I am often amazed at how sophisticated glass hunting can become depending on whether you are a true collector of glass, or someone like me who spots something that looks interesting, figure the price is right and simply take a chance on a particular piece of glass I like.

I don’t consider myself a glass collector per-say but I do have some glass pieces I find interesting and if I find out they are actually worth something I may think about adding to my collection. I am finding that there are definitely two schools of thought when it comes to collecting glass; one is when collecting only to add to your very own private glass collection, like me! The other: collecting for re-sale a mode I see as risky right now (for me anyway) because if the item I pick doesn’t sell, and I’m forced begin dropping the price on the item so that it does sell but for perhaps less than I paid for it; to me that adds up to a loss.

If you do have the urge to re-sell collectible glass then the following tips are for you. The first thing I do is visually inspect a glass piece for any imperfections like nicks, and hairline cracks, things you might not notice at first glance. Checking for irregularities and imperfections with your finger is how one of the experts I listened to goes about inspecting a prospective addition to their collection. But “glass”, with “fingers” I don’t know BE CAREFUL. Something else to look for especially with depression era glass which I’ll talk about in a moment is something called etching from hard water marks or too many trips though the family dishwasher; water hazing and spotting rates right up there with nicks and scratches when it comes to devaluating a glass piece.

Doing a little homework first might prove useful because the two important factors in what a piece of collectible glass is worth are scarcity, how many of a given glass type are still out there in the antique stores, and condition, or how well the glass piece you are considering has been taken care of. Take Flint glass Flint glass, a form of glass that was produced around the early 1850s leading up to the Civil War in 1860.
Flint glass was relatively high on the refractivity index because of all the lead used to make Flint glass. A gently thump, with your finger, usually results in a resonant bell-like-tone in true Flint glass unlike the simple clink heard with the same gentle thump on non-Flint glass. Note to self: make sure you’re holding the glass piece when you give it a gentle thump. The tone can actually vary with the condition of the glass but overall it should sound generated by the glass should be more musical than mechanical.

After the Civil War started lead was needed more for weapons than for glass making so the lead content in the glass being produced at that time went way down. Another hot collectible since the 1960s is Depression-era –glass. This kind of collectible glass comes in a myriad of colors and patterns and has increased in value over the years because when demand is up the supply goes down thus scarcity is making depression era glass worth even more if you can find it.

Some of the unique things about Depression glass, made between 1929 to the end of World War II, are the way and the purpose for which this kind of glass was made. Prior to depression era glass the traditional glass making process of blown glass craft of glass making was used. During the depression companies like Anchor Hocking came up with a way to save on the cost of making glass and used the molded glass making process. Glass was poured into molds and mass produced for everyday use and for promotional purposes.

The “molded lines” on depression era glass being one of the ways to identify this brand of glass. The mold process allowed glass to be produced cheaper than with the glass blowing process; back in the 1920s and 1930s it was not uncommon for these mass produce glass pieces like a white ivory punchbowl set cup, with a gold trim, to be given away free with an oil change. I suppose with enough oil changes you could end up with the entire punchbowl set.

Cambridge Glass Company, in business since 1873, was another maker of depression era glass, in 1920 the Cambridge glass company added a “C” to its glass pieces, in most cases a triangle with a “C” inside is what you will see on Cambridge glass. Keep in mind, however, that Cambridge glass pieces before 1920 was not marked with a “C” and would also still be a valued find. There are plenty of other collectible Depression era glass out there, in stores, and online, never know where your next collectible glass piece might come from.

If you go out and mine the thrift stores and antiques shops, like me, for glass additions to your collection or inventory a nick, crack, or scrape might not mean a lot to you if those things tip the price in your direction. However, if you’re mining glass items for re-sale you might be dealing with slightly tougher collectors, so at the very least you should probably list any imperfections you do notice on a Depression era piece you plan to selling online and keep your eyes open for those well cared for pieces with little or no sign of wear, that way you can ask for top dollar at re-sale. B. Gray

My Train Collection

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I collect electric toy trains of just about any style and type, the picture of the blue boxcar was one of my finds a few years ago, I’m just getting around to refurbishing it now. I got a call from one of my secret agents (the name I give to people at thrift store who accept my card and give me a call when something related to model railroading appears) sometime I have the time to make it there before the piece goes away—sometime not.
In this case I got lucky and purchased the Lionel model railroad car you see for a few bucks ($8.00) since it was missing a few things like the doors, and the rest of the train set; but that didn’t matter since I will add it to my collection of abandoned, and orphaned model railroad part of all sizes shapes and descriptions. As far as I can see this boxcar was manufactured in the 1950s and feels heavier and a little more solid than some of the newer rolling stock I have from Lionel.
If the automobiles I’ve seen from that era are any indication everything from that time was built to last. I would love to hear from other model railroad collectors with any up-dated-data on post WWII Lionel trains and their construction, especially of the rolling stock. My father actually introduced me to the Lionel model railroad but unfortunately none of the model train sets he brought for me and my brothers made it to my current collection.
My father truly loved of trains and the railroad in general; I could tell just by the way he talked about train stations, train engines, and all the work that went in to keeping a train running on time. He passes away when I was in grade school and before he could share much about that part of his life with me; and now that I think about it his explaining might not have registered any way, especially if it cut into my bike riding time.
I remember that I loved riding on the train from my very first train ride in the fifties when my mother and my aunt took me, my three brothers and younger sister on a train ride to Texas on board the Santa Faye Chief. My grandmother made the trip back with us a few weeks later and I remember telling her that when she left, I wanted to go with her, just so I could ride the train gain. That didn’t happen because while I was sleeping my father took my grandmother to the train station, and when I woke up she was gone.
I remember being so mad I told my parents I was going to run away to Texas, I really wanted another long ride on the train. I asked my mother for a suitcase, and heard my father tell her to give it to me, he was sure I would simply cry myself to sleep. My mother came in while I was packing and noticed that I had packed one of her dinner plates along with my clothes, when she asked why I reminded her that I was going to have to get some to eat.
She asked when I planned to leave and I said early in the morning, I just needed a ticket and I heard my father say I didn’t need one, I also heard my mother scold my dad a little when she left. With my bag pack I went to bed but then it hit me; my grandma has left at night—that was when the train ran! So not wanting to wake my parents I got up and left.
When I was about six years old we only lived about a block away from the train station, on Third & Townend Street, in San Francisco where my parents, still wearing their robes found me. I had walked onboard a row of passenger cars sitting on the tracks with no train engine attached, not long after that a man dressed in a dark suit came to me as asked where I thought I was going, I asked him if I was on the train that was going to Texas just as my, out of breath and in shock, parents arrived?
Years later and before she passed away, my grandmother would always remind me about my ill-planned trip to Texas. Years after that while working in broadcasting I was offered the chance to ride in the cab of a rebuild Steam Engine out of Hunter’s Point, in San Francisco and down the peninsula to Redwood City, I jumped at the ride and have been collecting and rebuilding my model railroad ever since.

Jewelry Collector

If you happen to frequent garage sales in search of jewelry, or precious metals, you might try asking the person having the garage sale if they have any broken jewelry they might like to sell. Often times when people are clearing out dresser draws, empting jewelry boxes looking for jewelry pieces to sell they don’t consider putting out the broken or mismatch accessory pieces; things they have come to consider of No, or Less, value which in the collector’s case (You) just might still be worth something! So if you collect jewelry take the time to ask if there is any mismatch or broken jewelry pieces, or at lease let the person having the garage sale know that you are also interested in any imperfect items of jewelry they may have. You might be surprised at what you’ll find and I think even if you don’t see anything of interest, at least you get to see a little more of any jewelry the garage sale seller was willing to get rid of.

Three ways to identify Sterling Silver

Whether you enjoy Antiquing/Collecting for fun, investment purposes, or for sale if you have some collecting secrets to share I welcome you here!  The following is something I learned about recently and wanted to share the news. The news involves being able to identify genuine Sterling Silver. For those of you who are experienced collectors—correct me if I’m wrong. I learned is that there are three different ways to identify pure Sterling Silver, number one is pretty obvious:

Look for the name Sterling Silver on the silverware or silver piece.

Two: genuine Sterling Silver is also identified by the number 925 stamped on the silver piece, and

Three: Sterling Silverware can be identified by a Lion Symbol stamped on the silver piece (with the lion looking to the left).

If you’re like me I really don’t have a particular antique or collectible I’m searching for, like silverware, but it helps to know the above signs just in case. By the way the number 925, as a Sterling Silver identifier, stands for Nine-hundred twenty-five parts per-thousand pure silver and worth holding on to, if you can find it.

Secrets for Collecting Antiques

Hello Antique Collector Secrets

Greetings and welcome to my blog. I am a retired (laid-off) power supply operations supervisor who has also been a moviemaker and musician. Over time I have developed a thirst for antique collecting.

Even though I am still in the learning part of the antique identification and collecting curve I enjoy sharing what I have learned in my search for antique keepers, most of the time hidden in plain sight; and I really appreciate hearing from others willing to share their antique and keepsake identification collecting secrets.

If you’ve ever watched an episode of Antique’s Road Show and wondered; how do the experts do that! Take something dug out of a barn, garage, or attic and appraise a piece with such certainty?

I seek the information not necessarily available to those of us without years of experience that sometimes stumbles upon prospective treasures in need of classification and authenticity. That is what I hope to one-day be able to do; to  make the most of my visits to antique stores, garage sales, and the occasional flea-market.

Antique collecting